Taureg People of the Sahara
We drove out into the Sahara from Timbuctu, Mali. The 4wheel drive vehicles ripped through the sand as we raced the setting sun. We knew little of what to expect, only that the Taureg people would be there and that we would be able to meet them and interact. The Taureg speak French aside from there tribal language and so we would be able to have some conversation. I was curious to see what commonalities I might share with the Taureg people, also known and the "Free People". They call themselves this because they own very little and have no permanent home. They are not tied to any particular patch of land like a farmer is and they roam for months at a time in search of salt. The only animals they own are camels because they require very little maintenance and allow the people to travel long distances in the hot Sahara sand.
When we arrived at their tented camp, we were greeted by singing and sword dancing. Tom, our resident professor and cultural interpreter on the trip had told me earlier that day about the Taureg men and how mysterious they were and that above all I should mingle with them but be careful. I understood what he meant as I watched the men riding their camels along the horizon, their heads wrapped in crowns of fabric and their beautiful skin glowing with the vibrant colors of the sunset. As if under a spell I gazed at them, watched their movements and wondered what it would be like to be a free person. In their eyes is a peace and freedom of which I have never known, a being so transparent that it captivates every sensation with its presence.
They made a dinner for us beneath a million star sky. We, a group of 23 Stanford University alumni and our respective guides, sat on rugs rolled out on the sand and ate millet with our hands. The soft grains dissolved in my mouth as I relished the sensation of eating food from my fingertips. Utensils are superfluous in the desert and so are individual plates. In Mali families share from one large dish, each member eating the food that is directly in front of them. The right hand in used to eat and greet and illustrate points with gestures as is done in all parts of the world...talking with that hands. The left hand is the "dirty hand" used for wiping your ass and that's about it. I kept having to remind myself not to use my left hand. I didn't want to offend my gracious hosts.
The men played enchanting, trance like music. The people danced, sometimes sitting, sometimes standing, moving their arms gracefully through the air, slow, slithering like a snake under a snake-charmers command. One man played a sort of guitar like instrument while the other pulsed beats on a drum. I even sang with them and made up a song for them. It was my gift to them for letting me into their world. It was their gift to me to share that moment of musical understanding.
